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Archive for 九月 2009

François Nars new shooting issue of Vogue Japan

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Life is good for François Nars. As one of the most famous makeup artists in the world, he’s created a luxe beauty brand (and earned enough to buy a small island in the process). Aside from heading up the Fall 2009 Marc Jacobs show, he’s kept a relatively low makeup-artist profile
lately, opting to pursue another of his passions, photography. His latest published work is in the new issue of Vogue Japan, in which he’s captured models Iekeliene Stange, Julia Dunstall, and Daul Kim. I find it a bit disappointing that none of the models are Japanese — though this isn’t the first time Vogue has been called less than culturally sensitive — but the photography itself proves that Mr. Nars’s talents go beyond the (blush) brush and into other art forms as well.
 
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Written by dester168

28/09/2009 at 15:00:29

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Backstage with NARS Cosmetics DAY 2

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Backstage with NARS Cosmetics at the Thakoon Spring/Summer 2010 show

SHOW: Thakoon

TREND: Luminous skin and contoured cheeks

LEAD ARTIST: Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics

INSPIRATION: The inspiration behind the collection came from the idea of "samurai-meets-surfer." The collection consisted of so many sharp edges and aqua-blues that deisgner Thakoon wanted the girls to look like warriors so that they could really wear and carry the strong clothing. With such bright colors, the goal was to keep the face a bit more monotone overall but still to impart strength around the eyes and cheekbones.

LOOK: A very strong and luminous face is the key to getting this look right. “It’s a beach warrior look – surfer girl meets Seven Samurai," explained lead artist Diane Kendal. She used a minimal amount of makeup everywhere, but contoured the cheeks and kept the eye deeply set to convey an image of power through minimalism.

GET THE LOOK: Key products and steps for recreating the look:

Face:
* Apply NARS Sheer Matte Foundation to conceal imperfections
* To achieve luminosity, apply NARS Orgasm Illuminator (NEW for Spring 2010) to the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin
* To contour and sculpt the cheeks, apply NARS Malaysia Multiple Bronzer and blend into the cheek bones
* Highlight the cheekbones and nose with the white side of NARS Hungry Heart Blush Duo
Eyes:
* Apply the brown side of NARS Alhambra Duo Eyeshadow on the entire eyelid up to the brows
* Blend both NARS D. Gorgeous Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) as well as the light pink side of NARS Kuala Lumpur Duo Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) into the crease, outer eye and up towards the brow bone.
* Apply NARS Bali Single Eyeshadow to the upper and lower lash lines as well as to the crease in the eyelid, blending with the other shadows to create definition.
* Dust NARS Night Snow Single Eyeshadow in the corners of the eyes
Lips:
* Mute lips by using NARS Concealer
* With your finger, apply NARS Ophelia Lip Gloss (NEW for Spring 2010) to the center of lips

Location: NYC
 
Backstage with NARS Cosmetics at the Marchesa Spring/Summer 2010 Show

SHOW: Marchesa

TREND: Soft Skin and Long, Feathered Lashes

LEAD ARTIST: Talia Shobrook for NARS Cosmetics

INSPIRATION: The inspiration behind the collection came from Madame Butterfly. “I wanted to capture the real look of Japan, create layers and bits of origami,” said designer Georgina Chapman. The whimsical creations based in sculpted layers balanced the soft, bare faces that were accentuated with long lashes.

LOOK: Very simple, romantic and beautiful skin contoured with varying formulas. “We contoured the skin with matte and shimmery textures and added feathers to the eyes to provide dimension to the face,” explained lead artist Talia Shobrook. A matte face was illuminated with a bit of shimmer. Feather lashes, custom created by NARS from the feathers on the Marchesa dresses, gave excitement to an otherwise simple look.

GET THE LOOK: Key products and steps for recreating the look:

Face:
* Mix NARS Sheer Matte Foundation with NARS Orgasm Illuminator (NEW for Spring 2010) and gently blend all over the face
* Apply NARS Concealer under the eyes and only where redness shows
* Using fingers, apply NARS Luxor Multiple (NEW for Holiday 2009) across the cheekbone
* Apply NARS Powder Foundation under the eyes and to the center of forehead
* With a NARS Yachiyo Kabuki Artisan Brush contour the cheeks with NARS Nepal Single Eyeshadow
* Apply a mixture of both shadows from NARS Thebes Cream Duo Eyeshadow on the cheekbones, bridge of nose and on the upper temples

Eyes:
* Apply NARS Abyssinia Single Eyeshadow all over the eye up to the brow
* Line the top lashline, as well as the lower lash line, with NARS Iceberg Eyeliner Pencil
* Curl lashes with a NARS Eyelash Curler
* Apply one light coat of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara on the top lashes, only
* Using clear eyelash glue, apply NARS custom-made feather lashes
Lips:
* Apply NARS Cruising Lipstick (NEW for Spring 2010) with fingers to the lips
Location: NYC
 
Backstage with NARS Cosmetics at the 3.1 phillip lim Women’s Spring/Summer 2010 show

SHOW: 3.1 phillip lim Women’s

TREND: Luminous Skin and Soft Eyes

LEAD ARTIST: Lisa Butler for NARS Cosmetics

INSPIRATION: The theme behind the collection was collage, with inspiration springing from the late works of Picasso and the Cubism period. The pieces look different from every angle leaving a sense of mystery to them, while remaining timeless. The same idea is applied to the makeup. An abundance of different textures- matte, sheer, shimmer and shine- were portrayed differently as the model moved around. The clothes, like the makeup, were meant to stimulate the senses, be emotional, and also to sympathize with current times.

LOOK: The look is clean and textural, giving a sense that makeup is there but not detectable from the plain eye. “The idea is not to be harsh. The look is part sheer with shades of green, brown and lilac fading into each other” said lead artist Lisa Butler. The key points include highlights of iridescence and gold to the cheekbones, light liner (almost invisible) and peach lips. “There is some shimmer so when the face moves around, the light really captures it. But there are no lines- no eye lines, no lip lines.”

GET THE LOOK: Key products and steps for recreating the look:

Face:
* Mix a small amount of NARS Concealer with NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream to apply just around the nose forehead and cheeks
* Blend NARS Luxor Multiple (NEW for Holiday 2009) with a foundation brush to the cheekbone moving down diagonally toward the lips and adding a little bit onto the lips for subtle highlights
Eyes:
* Apply the golden moss side of NARS Camargue Duo Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) all over the eye filling in the crease with the sienna side
* Depending on skin tone, apply NARS Mousson Cream Eyesahdow (NEW for Holiday 2009) to adjust the color on the lid
* Using a NARS Smudge Brush apply D.Gorgeous Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) to the lower lash line adding intensity as need be (“It’s not a heavy liner, but it shows some color,” explained Lisa Butler)
* Apply one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara to the top lashes

Lips:
* Add a swipe of NARS Cruising Lipstick (NEW for Spring 2010) and some NARS Luxor Multiple (NEW for Holiday 2009) to a NARS Retractable Lip Brush and dab lightly onto the lips starting in the middle and working your way out

Finish:
* Apply NARS Orgasm Illuminator (NEW for Spring 2010) to the face, concentrating on the cheekbones
* Reapply both shades from NARS Camargue Duo Eyeshadow to the brow bones

Location: NYC

Written by dester168

18/09/2009 at 01:22:43

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Backstage with NARS Cosmetics Spring/Summer 2010 –DAY 1

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Backstage with NARS Cosmetics at Derek LamSpring/Summer 2010SHOW: Derek Lam Spring/Summer 2010

 TREND: Tribal Inspired Eyes and Doll-Like Red Lips

LEAD ARTIST: Tom Pecheux for NARS Cosmetics

INSPIRATION: Derek Lam’s inspiration drew from a nostalgic fantasy evoked by places such as Coney Island, Asbury Park, and Key West. It was a parade of carnival essence and cinematic quality with an American twist meant to bring forth a new perspective on silhouette.

LOOK: An optimistic fairytale of color. Tom Pecheux created vibrant eyes and bright, cherry-red lips complemented by a doll-like flush of pink and orange. “I wanted to dot the lips red with my fingers rather than draw a straight line of color. Instead, I chose to do that with the eyes- I love when the multiple colors are drawn straight across and outward for a very tribal effect. I used the new Easy Lover lip gloss on just the outline of the lips to have the girls appear doll-like. It was Coney Island chic,” said Tom Pecheux.
GET THE LOOK: Key products and steps for recreating the look:
Face:
* Blend NARS Sheer Glow Foundation with a foundation brush into skin
* Set with NARS Loose Powder
* Buff skin with NARS Kabuki Artisan Boton Brush for a porcelain doll effect
Eyes:
*Using the emerald side of NARS Misfit Duo Eyeshadow and NARS Eye Shader brush, drag the shadow along the lower lash line straight across until just past the outer corner
* Dust the violet side of NARS Jolie Poupee Duo Eyeshadow on the eyelids; use the darker side in the crease and fade into the temple joining the emerald green from Misfit
* Highlight the inner corners of the eyes with NARS Bains Douche Glitter Pencil (NEW for Spring 2010), making the connection between the purple and green
* After curling lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler, apply three coats of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara on the top and bottom lashes
* Dust the burnt orange side of NARS Mediteranee Duo Eyeshadow along the brow bone

Lips:
* Fill in the lips lightly with NARS Red Square Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, dotting the lips with your fingers to blend it in
* Outline the lips with NARS Easy Lover Lip Gloss (NEW for Spring 2010) to create a plush-looking, glassy pout
Cheeks:
* Apply NARS Nico Blush to give a subtle hint of highlighting
* Dust Desire Blush in round, circular movements onto the apples of the cheeks
* Finish with NARS Taj Mahal Blush, blending it in with the pink cheeks and up towards the temples
Location: NYC

Backstage with NARS Cosmetics at 3.1 phillip lim Men’s SS10

 SHOW: 3.1 phillip lim Men

TREND: Expressive eyes

LEAD ARTIST: Itsuki for NARS Cosmetics

INSPIRATION: Phillip Lim’s first men’s presentation revolved around a combination of intellect and rebellion – reminiscent of 1950’s beatniks. After war, groups of American poets, artists and writers (think: Jack Kerouac and Allen Gingsberg) came together in prominence with the cultural phenomena that was the essence of their writings. They stood for anti-consumerism, they fought the economic downturn and they demanded liberation… all, ironically, in style."I wanted the boys to look natural, come as you are, with a sensitive look, but still a bit masculine" explained designer Phillip Lim.

LOOK: Boyishly handsome. Itsuki focused on defining a man’s most striking features, the jaw, eyes and cheek bones, while leaving the skin with a natural glow. “I wanted to make the eyes a bit stronger… sexy, but delicately masculine,” said Itsuki.

GET THE LOOK: Key products and steps for recreating the look:
Face:
* Cover imperfections and dark circles with NARS Concealer
* Blend NARS Sheer Glow Foundation with fingers into skin
* Lightly pat a small amount of Orgasm Illuminator (NEW for Spring 2010) on the cheekbones and forehead
* Dust the jaw line with NARS Single Eyeshadow in Blondie, Bengali, or Bali (depending on skin tone) to accentuate a strong jaw
Eyes:
* Lightly dust eyebrows in upward strokes with NARS Bali Single Eyeshadow
* Use NARS Single Eyeshadow in Blondie, Bali, or Bengali (depending on skin tone) to lightly contour from the inner corner toward the outer corner
of the eye and along the bottom of the brow bone to create a deep-set effect
* Subtly rim the lower lash line with the same NARS Single Eyeshadow
Location: NYC

Backstage with NARS Cosmetics at Marc Jacobs

 Spring/Summer 2010

 
SHOW: Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2010
LEAD ARTIST: François Nars, Founder and Creative Director of NARS Cosmetics

 

TREND: Theatrical Makeup
 
INSPIRATION: The look of the Marc Jacobs collection was inspired by the contemporary dancer, Martha Graham: Old-fashioned and theatrical but graceful and precise. At the same time, however, there was a darker side that was shone through: a quality of gothic romance. Ballerinas with a sense of mystery- as if part of them, along with some of their makeup, had been left behind on stage.
 

 

LOOK: Left-over stage makeup. The models weren’t meant to have perfect makeup- rather, they were meant to encompass a “just came off-stage” effect. “Dancers in theater and opera always have white faces, pointed lips and an eye that is drawn outward, not upward-it’s very theatrical, very ballet,” said François Nars. He stressed the importance of the eye for this look, noting that “the shape of the eyeliner is important- it should open the eyes, especially underneath. The slashes of white is something they used to do in the 70s- it brings a 3-dimensional feeling to the makeup.”

GET THE LOOK: Key products and steps for recreating the look:
Face:
* Blend NARS Siberia Sheer Matte foundation onto the face
* Set with NARS Snow Loose Powder for a white, pirouette-clown look
* Subtly contour and highlight, if necessary, with NARS Hungry Heart Blush Duo

Eyes:
* Dust the white shimmer from the left side of NARS Pandora Duo Eyeshadow on the eyelid
* Use NARS D.Gorgeous Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) in the crease
Using the NARS Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches on the top and bottom lids, follow the shape of the eye, elongating it just past the outer corners but keeping the line straight and out, never moving upwards.
* Use NARS Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil to enhance the eye
* After applying two sets of false eyelashes, apply one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara followed by one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara
Lips:
* Apply NARS Pop Life Velvet Matte Lip Pencil (NEW for Holiday 2009) to upper and lower lips, adding an extra layer on the top lip. Dab your finger along the lower lip to lightly fade the color so that the top lip is darker.

Location: NYC

Written by dester168

16/09/2009 at 02:44:06

張貼於NARS

Magazine: Vogue Italia

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Magazine: Vogue Italia
Published: September 2009.
Fashion Editor/Stylist: Karl Templer
Hair Stylist: Julien d’Ys
Makeup Artist: Pat McGrath
Models: Viktoriya Sosonkina, Max Rogers, Ash Stymest, Will Lewis, Jamie Bochert, Christian Brylle, Meghan Collison, Simon Nessman, Sessilee Lopez, Sasha Pivovarova, Anna Jagodzinska, Coco Rocha
Photography by Steven Meisel
Website: www.vogue.it

Even more theatric than the cover’s is Vogue Italia’s accompanying September cover story, Performance photographed by their very own Steven Meisel, click below for a very interesting video compilation of the pictorial, more images under the cut:
 
  

Written by dester168

05/09/2009 at 07:20:21

張貼於fashion

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